Temptations of the fall

When asked, “What defines autumn?” any watch enthusiast will undoubtedly answer: Geneva Watch Days (September 4–7). This exhibition, which emerged spontaneously in 2020 during the height of the pandemic as an alternative to large centralized watch fairs, has steadily gained influence and continues to attract new participants. Last year, 52 watch brands were showcased, but this year, the number rose to 66. There’s no doubt that Geneva Watch Days will continue to grow, especially as it has already established itself as Switzerland’s second most important watch exhibition after Watches & Wonders.

The world seems to spin faster today, and the watch industry is no exception. A decade ago, it was considered logical to present novelties at the beginning of the year, allowing dealers to place orders for watches that would arrive in boutiques by autumn. However, advancements in communication and logistics have changed the game, with collectors now constantly on the lookout for exciting releases—not just to see them online but to experience them firsthand.

For six consecutive years, thousands of enthusiasts from around the globe have flocked to Geneva in the fall to celebrate the art of watchmaking.

Smoke and Mirrors

With visitors arriving in a relaxed post-summer state of mind, brands approach their autumn premieres with careful consideration, aiming to delight the eye rather than challenge the intellect. The majority of new releases this year focused not on complex mechanics but on innovative designs and unique materials.

One of the show’s highlights, Bulgari, presented two new dial variations within its Octo Finissimo collection, which earlier this year achieved its tenth world record in ultra-thin watchmaking. The new models feature dials crafted from blue marble and a striking tinted mirror. The latter deserves special attention: the Bulgari x Lee Ufan Octo Finissimo is a collaboration with Korean-born Japanese artist Lee Ufan, renowned for his stone and mirror installations. The dial, designed by Ufan, adds depth to the titanium case, which is just 5.5 mm thick, and accentuates the cold brilliance of the hands. Inside, the watch houses the in-house BVL 138 caliber with a micro-rotor, measuring only 2.23 mm thick. This limited edition is restricted to 150 pieces.

Ulysse Nardin also reimagined the aesthetic of its iconic Freak collection with an extraordinary dial. The central hour disc of the limited-edition Freak X Crystalium (50 pieces) is made from an eye-catching synthetic crystal based on ruthenium. Its frosted surface resembles icy patterns on glass, creating a captivating visual effect.

Celebrating its 20th anniversary, MB&F unveiled a completely revamped version of its most “classic” timepiece, the Legacy Machine 101 EVO. The LM101 movement, featuring a floating balance wheel and Straumann hairspring, is now housed in an EVO case that is water-resistant to 80 meters and equipped with a shock-absorbing FlexRing. The model is available with two dial options—green and orange—crafted using Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) technology. The green version, in particular, shimmers with shades of blue and purple depending on the light.

Interestingly, vibrant colors from summer cruise collections have seamlessly transitioned into autumn. For example, Zenith introduced the Defy Chronograph USM, created in collaboration with the renowned Swiss furniture house USM Modular Furniture. The El Primero 400 chronograph caliber is now dressed in four signature shades from USM Haller’s iconic furniture line: green, orange, blue, and yellow. Each variation is limited to 60 pieces, and the packaging doubles as a functional USM Haller storage box.

Finally, Louis Erard’s latest collaboration features Wire Art, an atelier by Sylvie Villa and Marc Milbradt specializing in weaving gold threads as thin as 25 microns. The intricate patterns on the Louis Erard x Wire Art Fil d’Or dials are machine-applied, enabling the brand to keep prices accessible. The release is limited to 99 pieces.

The Mechanics of Tomorrow

Geneva Watch Days also showcased new calibers that prioritize real innovation over traditional complications, promising to shape the future of watch mechanics.

Perhaps the most significant breakthrough came from TAG Heuer, which, after a decade of development, has finally begun serial production of its revolutionary TH-Carbonspring balance spring made from carbon fiber. This material is resistant to temperature fluctuations, mechanical deformation, and magnetic interference, while also being exceptionally durable. To underscore its commitment to the new spring, TAG Heuer has equipped two calibers with it: the automatic TH20-60 with an 80-hour power reserve in the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring, and the TH20-61 with a 65-hour power reserve in the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring. Both models, limited to 50 pieces each, feature carbon cases and dials.

Greubel Forsey also showcased its long-awaited “nano project,” culminating in the Nano Foudroyante EWT. Although the watch was formally unveiled earlier this year, sales began only in October, and visitors in Geneva had the chance to see and try it on. Housed in the brand’s smallest-ever case, measuring just 37.9 mm in diameter, the mechanism features a tourbillon, chronograph, and a jumping seconds hand that consumes half the energy of traditional foudroyante systems. Production is limited to 22 pieces.

Among the boutique brands, Renaud Tixier’s Monday Organica stood out. Founded last year by the legendary Dominique Renaud (co-founder of APRP), the brand debuted with a practical innovation: an inertia module that significantly enhances the efficiency of winding a mainspring via a micro-rotor. Only seven pieces of this model have been produced, featuring a platinum case and a hand-engraved dial by Olivier Vaucher.

Whimsy and Robots

Many collectors seek not only beauty and practicality but also entertainment from watch mechanics, and Geneva Watch Days delivered plenty of fun.

Urwerk took its satellite indication to new heights with the UR-150 Blue Scorpion. This model features a carousel with three satellite hour discs and a retrograde hand. When the hand reaches the end of the scale, it instantly snaps back 240°, triggering all three discs to rotate and align with the next hour marker.

Czapek’s Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. adds a whimsical touch to its split-second chronograph caliber, developed by Chronode, with the inclusion of a robot figurine on the dial. Each time the chronograph button is pressed, the robot’s eyes change color. The name R.U.R. references the famous 1921 play by Karel Čapek—coincidentally a namesake of François Czapek, the brand’s founder—and the origin of the word “robot.”

Lastly, an unexpected collaboration emerged between Chinese brand Behrens and renowned Swiss watchmaker Vianney Halter. The design of the Behrens x Vianney Halter Master Collection KWH was inspired by an antique electricity meter that still hangs in Halter’s workshop in Sainte-Croix. Minutes are displayed on two rotating rollers, while the hour indicator takes the form of a “pixelated snake” slithering around the dial’s perimeter. The watch case is styled to resemble Tetris blocks. This playful design brought joy to many visitors, proving that nostalgia can be a delightful way to enjoy time.

At the sixth Geneva Watch Days, it wasn’t about the number of premieres, record-breaking prices, or mechanical complexity—it was about originality. Most participants focused on one or two novelties, pouring so much effort and creativity into them that you couldn’t help but want to strap one on your wrist immediately.