A new trend in watchmaking is the collaboration of different styles and philosophies, each bringing their own recognisable features and charisma to the collaboration. Although many of these projects are controversial, collectors are on the hunt for such two-in-one pieces.
The idea of special-edition watches featuring two logos on the dial isn’t new, though for a long time, it was more of an exception than the rule. Traditionally, such partnerships were about filling gaps—watchmakers teamed up with jewellers, complication creators collaborated with design houses, and so on. These alliances were marked by their exclusivity, instantly catching the eye. Think of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711 Tiffany Blue, created to celebrate the 170th anniversary of the Geneva watchmaker's partnership with Tiffany & Co., which sold for $6.5 million at Christie’s in 2021. Or the legendary Harry Winston Opus series, launched in the early 2000s, which pioneered collaborations between major brands and independent watchmakers as guest stars. Until recently, these collaborations were typically between equals, appealing to the same high-end clientele.
That all changed in 2022, when Omega and Swatch shattered expectations with the launch of the MoonSwatch. This playful reimagining of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch featured a quartz movement and a price tag of just $250. Purists were outraged, but the miles-long queues outside Swatch boutiques told a different story: the concept was a hit. A year later, Swatch pushed the envelope further with a collaboration with Blancpain, reinterpreting the historic Fifty Fathoms dive watch. The new version featured a colourful bioceramic case and an automatic Sistem51 movement, renowned for its 51-part construction and disposable, non-repairable design.
This model found its loyal fans, leading to the release of the boldest version yet in early 2025: the Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms Pink Ocean. With a case, dial, strap, and even parts of the movement in an eye-popping neon pink, this watch is so striking it would make Barbie jealous. Despite the daring colour, the watch retains a masculine 42.3mm size.
Boldness and innovation are exactly what today’s watch enthusiasts expect from collaborations, as demonstrated by another avant-garde hybrid of 2025: the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti. Maximilian Büsser, the mastermind behind the Harry Winston Opus project, had previously collaborated with Bulgari in 2022, creating a jewelled version of the MB&F LM FlyingT tourbillon. This time, the challenge was more ambitious. In the Year of the Snake, it was only fitting to honour Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti collection, which had traditionally been exclusively feminine. Büsser and Bulgari’s creative director, Fabrizio Buonamassa, reimagined it for men. The teardrop-shaped case, available in titanium, rose gold, or steel with black PVD, mimics a snake’s head, while the signature coiled bracelet was replaced with a textile strap. Inside beats a central balance movement borrowed from the MB&F HM10 Bulldog. Each of the three versions is limited to just 33 pieces.
A New Vision
Louis Erard has also embraced the wave of collaborations, thanks to the creativity of its CEO, Manuel Emch. Recognising that the brand’s sole iconic model, Le Regulateur, didn’t need reinvention, Emch instead invited renowned watchmakers and designers to radically transform its appearance multiple times a year. Each series is unique, strictly limited, and sells out like hotcakes. Past collaborators have included Alain Silberstein, Kudoke, Cédric Johner, Massena LAB, and even Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin. Two years ago, Chaykin created the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater, a whimsical version of his "wristmon" concept, where the dial became a hungry cyclops.
A more recent release is the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Regulateur Chapter II, the second collaboration with the celebrated watchmaker. Here, the signature regulator powered by the Sellita SW266-1 caliber is offset from the centre of the dial. The subdials are adorned with rose gold and Halter’s signature blued steel hands.
By contrast, the collaboration between Vianney Halter and Alexandre Beauregard took a different approach. Their Vianney Halter x Beauregard Ulysse features a "floating indication" movement developed in Halter’s Saint-Croix atelier, encased in a delicate lacework of gold threads and aquamarine inlays crafted by Beauregard’s Montreal workshop. Only 10 pieces were produced.
Earlier this year, Frederique Constant released the Watch Angels Worldtimer Manufacture Limited Edition, co-designed with the Watch Angels collector community. They modified the in-house FC-718 caliber, removing the date window, simplifying the dial, and reducing the stainless steel case to 42mm. The production is limited to 718 pieces.
A Touch of Madness
One of the most successful and promising trends in collaborations is the pairing of serious manufacturers with experimental designers. Among these is Romaric André, founder of the Parisian atelier seconde/seconde/. Known for injecting humour into his projects, André’s latest creation is the Turbine Perrelet x seconde/seconde/, limited to 25 pieces. The watch features a playful warning symbol on the dial, cautioning against sticking fingers into Perrelet’s famous spinning "turbine" to avoid losing them. Even the brand’s founding year is cheekily reimagined as "1777 days without injury".
William Massena, head of the popular design studio Massena LAB, prefers the elegance of 1940s aesthetics. His recent collaboration with H. Moser & Cie, the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, surprised fans with its vintage-inspired design. The 41mm case houses a dial with Arabic numerals reminiscent of classic two-register chronographs. Inside is the HMC 220 in-house caliber with a Dubois Depraz chronograph module. The edition is limited to 100 pieces.
Ulysse Nardin took a bold step by inviting young fashion designer Amoureuxpeintre (formerly known as Vsevolod "Sever" Cherepanov) to reimagine the Blast X Skeleton. The result? An industrial grey watch with a smoky dial—a design that seems to resonate with the tastes of the younger generation.
Finally, at the Geneva Watch Salon in April, Carl Suchy & Söhne unveiled the Vienna 1, a collaboration between two renowned creatives. Designer Eric Giroud crafted a minimalist dial inspired by Viennese modernist architecture, while a rotating disc at 6 o’clock adds a touch of motion to the static design. The Vaucher 5401 movement is hand-decorated with a custom Côte de Vienne pattern by watchmaker Marc Jenni. The model comes in three dial options: white, black, and "Blue Danube".
As Voltaire once said, "Great minds think alike." By the way, he himself was a watchmaker.
