Elemental fragrance
We deliberately avoided simple aquatic perfumes that evoke the sun, sand on tanned skin, sea salt in hair, and the bright smile of a surfer. While we have nothing against those, we believe the water element is far more complex. The sea can be both a friend and a foe, carrying ancient horrors reminiscent of H.P. Lovecraft's stories or romantic tales of voyages. Moreover, water can be tamed — rivers can be dressed in granite shores and spanned by bridges, or streams can be confined within fountain pipes.
Aqua Gotica, Fakoshima.
Founders of the Russian perfume brand Fakoshima, Konstantin Shilyaev and Yaroslav Simonov, explain: "In our vision, a modern marine fragrance is one about the sea but created in a completely unconventional style. There are many perfumes emphasizing marine water, coldness, freshness, and minerality, often bordering on the scent of men's grooming products. We wanted to highlight the part of the sea we perceive but often overlook. It’s the iodine-rich, fresh smell carried by the ocean breeze. It’s the abstract freshness and saltiness emanating from an icy platter of freshly caught oysters and seafood. Similar fragrances with a subtle metallic 'sheen,' reminiscent of the dampness of an autumn forest, are almost nonexistent. At the same time, the scent itself turned out pleasant and wearable because we added softness for extra depth and originality — a powdery balsamic accord of warm resins. All of this is set on a suede base with a barely perceptible fruity tone of osmanthus, reminiscent of an apricot digestif. The result is a beautiful contrast between the cold sea breeze and warm fruity leatheriness, as if the breeze envelops you while you stand on warm sand, wrapped in a cloak."
Staelios, Pierre Guillaume.
In 1786, a brigantine named Die Fraumetta Catharina von Flensburg sailed from Saint Petersburg to Genoa carrying a cargo of deerskins and hemp. It sank in Plymouth Sound but was discovered almost two centuries later by underwater archaeologists. The bundles of leather not only survived but gained exceptional elasticity and gradient shades ranging from brown to burgundy. Some strips of this leather ended up in the hands of perfumer Pierre Guillaume, inspiring a composition with notes of Moroccan and Virginia cedar, davana (pale wormwood), anash pepper leaves, violet, and Russian leather.
Tonnere and Cape Wrath, Beaufort London.
To celebrate its tenth anniversary, the brand released the Force Majeure trio. Among them, Cape Wrath is particularly recommended. It’s dedicated to the extreme northwestern point of Scotland — Cape Wrath, where any passing sailor risks leaving behind their "Good Hope." The composition combines angelica, elemi, and galbanum, complemented by black pepper, geranium, and mastic resin. In the base, oakmoss, ambrette, grey amber, and seaweed follow. And, of course, we must not forget Beaufort's classic. Tonnere, released in 2015, is a perfumed panorama of the Battle of Trafalgar. It smells of gunpowder, brandy, sea water, wet wood, and spices.
Endurance, Botanicae Expressions.
A fragrance inspired by Ernest Shackleton's journey to the South Pole aboard the brigantine Endurance from 1914–1917. Shackleton and his crew were trapped when their ship was crushed by Antarctic ice. The Spanish creators conveyed this epic adventure in a surprisingly cheerful scent, opening with notes of grapefruit and pineapple — visions a frostbitten polar explorer might dream of. Its "heart" carries lavender, ginger, and monoi (a Tahitian cosmetic oil made from tiaré flowers soaked in coconut oil). The base features musk, cedar, and grey amber.
Aqua, Santa Maria Novella.
Water in a stone fountain within the lush park of Villa Medici. Refreshing coolness and the scent of fruits. The murmuring fountains evoke the melody of a lute and lines from Boccaccio, read aloud in Italian by a young woman. Notes of pear (a trendy choice today), freesia, lotus, and musk.
Sous le Pont Mireabeau, L’Etat Libre d’Orange.
"Under the Mirabeau Bridge, the Seine flows eternally. This is our love," wrote Guillaume Apollinaire in his most famous poem. The fragrance attempts to capture the first impression of his verses with notes of bergamot, pink pepper, and fig. In the heart, they resonate with incense, aquatic accords, ozone, and violet. The aftertaste features Virginian cedar, vanilla, sandalwood, synthetic Orcanox, and musk.
