The Grand Trio
The desire of leading Swiss manufacturers to impress their admirers with the most luxurious complications is quite understandable. When global politics and economics experience turbulence, the world of luxury does not hold back; instead, it raises the stakes. This approach targets serious collectors and thoughtful fans of watch mechanics, whose desire to own unique timepieces remains undeterred even in challenging times.
On the other hand, brands avoid experiments and risky inventions that might be misunderstood by clients. Only time-tested, respectable complications supported by modern technologies are chosen. Of course, it’s better not to limit oneself to one mechanical trick but to equip wristwatches with as many spectacular functions as possible.
The main representative of this trend is the Geneva-based house Vacheron Constantin, which, in honor of its 270th anniversary, introduced the record-breaking model Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, featuring 41 functions and officially declared "the most complicated watch in the world." The caliber 3655, housed in a double-sided case with a diameter of 45 mm, includes a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, Westminster chime, and five more rare astronomical complications. Naturally, this is a unique piece for which 13 patents have been filed.
It should be noted that the year 2025 has been extraordinarily rich in anniversaries. Unsurprisingly, many decided to mark this beautiful date with creations made on the principle of "the best of." For instance, Hublot celebrates the 20th anniversary of its iconic Big Bang collection this year, preparing a whole fireworks display of bright novelties. Among them, the "Materials and High Complications" set stands out, featuring 5 highly complex in-house mechanisms in cases made from high-tech materials. For example, the Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater 20th Anniversary features the HUB8100 caliber with a tourbillon and minute repeater housed in a 43 mm carbon case coated with blue Texalium.
An extreme combination of complications is presented by A. Lange & Söhne in the Minute Repeater Perpetual model. For the first time in the history of the Saxon manufacture, a combination of a minute repeater and perpetual calendar can be seen in the new caliber L122.2. Moreover, it comes in a fairly compact design: the platinum case has a diameter of 40 mm and a height of 12.1 mm.
Patek Philippe has for the first time implemented its Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308 model in serial production, which was introduced two years ago as a pièce unique in platinum. Now you can purchase a version in a gold case with a diameter of 42 mm, housing the automatic caliber R CHR 27 PS QI with a perpetual calendar, split chronograph, and minute repeater.
In pursuit of the whirlwind
Naturally, the "king of complications" — the tourbillon — remains the focus of watch engineers. And here, too, there were global achievements.
Bulgari, officially participating in Watches & Wonders for the first time, showcased its tenth record in the last 11 years — the world's thinnest tourbillon watch, Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, in a titanium case with a diameter of 40 mm and thickness of only 1.85 mm. Importantly, this is not an experimental concept but a fully commercial series limited to 20 pieces.
Jacob & Co., which hosted its own presentation, challenged the laws of nature with the Astronomia Revolution Four-Axis Tourbillon novelty. When asked how to create a four-axis tourbillon, the brand's masters responded elegantly by placing a carriage that rotates in three directions (at speeds of 15, 18, and 60 seconds) on the central platform of the dial, which also makes one revolution per minute. This fantastic carousel is set in a gold case with a diameter of 47 mm, limited to 18 pieces.
The Arnold and Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 model, inspired by the tourbillon created by Abraham-Louis Breguet based on John Arnold’s "Chronometer No. 11," will surely appeal to fans of historical classics. The tourbillon can be seen from the back cover side (as in the historical original), while the dial, covered with enamel, features a constant force module in the form of a "dead seconds" display.
Fans of original modern tourbillons should pay attention to the Kross Studio MT1 Chronomètre Tourbillon 7 Jours, created by a young brand previously known for its witty collaborations with Hollywood. The titanium case houses the KS 7010 MT caliber with a power reserve of a whole week.
Eternal values
While minute repeaters have always been considered the most elite and non-mass complication, this year’s Geneva salon unexpectedly featured many models with perpetual calendars. This relatively static yet rather capricious mechanism in maintenance almost surpassed the tourbillon in the number of premieres.
Aesthetes and connoisseurs of refined classics were delighted with the new Parmigiani Toric Perpetual Calendar in a platinum case with a diameter of 40.6 mm and the PF733 caliber with manual winding and two barrels providing a 60-hour power reserve.
Frederique Constant, known for introducing the most affordable perpetual calendar ten years ago, has now equipped the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture model with the new improved FC-766 caliber, offering an increased power reserve of up to 72 hours. The mechanism is housed in a steel case with a diameter of 40 mm, while the salmon-colored dial is designed in an elegant vintage style. These remain among the most affordable watches of this class on the market.
The independent British brand Bremont, known for its fairly democratic watches, primarily in vintage military style, unexpectedly introduced the most complex model in its collection. The Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT features the BHC9192-MH caliber, exclusively developed at the Agenhor atelier based on Sellita AMT 6900 with manual winding. It includes a perpetual calendar module and a 24-hour GMT module, easily adjusted by pressing a side button. The case has a diameter of 42 mm, made of titanium, and the dial is painted in RAF Blue, inspired by the blue uniforms of British military pilots. The series is limited to 50 pieces.
As tradition dictates, IWC could not ignore the topic of perpetual calendars, as the famous module invented by Kurt Klaus in the early 80s is a hallmark of the Schaffhausen manufacture. Collectors and admirers of the brand's restrained style will surely appreciate the fact that the new version of the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 combines two legends: Klaus's mechanism housed in the classic "Inge" case with a diameter of 41 mm, inspired by Gerald Genta's original design from 1976. To compact the dial, the current year indicator had to be removed, but the new automatic caliber 82600 has many other advantages, such as shock-resistant mechanism components made of zirconium ceramics.
And these are far from all the premieres with complications presented at Watches & Wonders. So, if you’re looking to acquire a watch that will continue to amaze with its mechanics for years to come — now is the perfect time.
