"I’ve never liked ovals since childhood; I’ve always drawn angles instead." For a watch expert, these now-iconic words might evoke the fact that square and rectangular shapes have been a defining feature of men’s wristwatches since their inception. Declaring them "new trend" would be a considerable exaggeration.
The world’s first men’s wristwatch, created in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his friend, aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, was housed in a revolutionary square case. The Santos de Cartier collection has been in production for over 120 years, weathering every crisis in watchmaking history, and remains a true icon to this day.
In the latest release, the Santos de Cartier Dual Time, the brand’s designers imagined what it would be like if Santos-Dumont lived in modern times and piloted a private jet. The expressive 41mm steel case features a mix of brushed and polished finishes, paired with a steel bracelet that can be effortlessly swapped for a sleek leather strap using Cartier’s patented QuickSwitch system. Inside, the watch is powered by the in-house 1847 MC calibre, equipped with a dual-time module. The second time zone is prominently displayed on a sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position, ensuring both functionality and timeless elegance.
It’s worth acknowledging that Cartier’s design choices have always stood out, defying the conventional norms of the watchmaking industry. This has been especially true over the past 30 years, during which most mechanical wristwatches were round, while square models were deemed "unsellable," finding popularity primarily in Asian markets.
One of the most widely accepted explanations for the resurgence of square watches today is similar to what happened in the late 1970s, when digital displays briefly overtook traditional hands. Smartwatches, particularly the Apple Watch, now exert a similar influence on traditional mechanical timepieces. A rectangular case, reminiscent of a smartphone, is seen as modern and stylish, while rounded designs can feel outdated. Another reason lies in the fact that square watches align better with the sporty casual aesthetic. If we were to compare watch design to automotive design, a case with sharp angles, clean lines, and layered transitions is more akin to a rugged SUV than an economy compact car.
Straightening the Curves
In recent years, more and more luxury watch brands have been moving away from rounded designs. Patek Philippe made this shift so boldly and unexpectedly that it caused a sensation. The Cubitus collection, unveiled in October in Munich, marks the Geneva-based maison’s first new line in 25 years.
It has been nearly 50 years since the launch of Patek Philippe’s last hugely successful line of sporty casual watches, the Nautilus, designed for the Geneva manufacture in 1976 by Gérald Genta. Half a century is certainly enough time to consider a new iconic model. And so, the rounded porthole of the Nautilus has been replaced by a bold, angular square.
The name of the new collection has already sparked a few jokes, as "cubitus" in Latin translates to "elbow" or "couch." However, it seems Patek Philippe didn’t put much emphasis on the etymology; instead, the Latin suffix "-us" was chosen to highlight the connection to the previous model. The new watches inherit many features from the Nautilus, including the automatic calibre 26-330 SC. With a case size of 45 × 45 mm, the Cubitus makes a striking and commanding impression on the wrist.
The designers at Bulgari have completely reimagined the Octo line, originally conceptualised by Gérald Genta. The new case design features a rectangular foundation and an intricate structure with 110 facets, enabling Bulgari to set world records in ultra-thin watches without compromising wearability. A prime example is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, which, at just 1.7 mm thick, holds the title of the world’s thinnest mechanical watch ever produced—not as a prototype but as a fully realised production model. The watch incorporates a COSC-certified ultra-thin mechanical movement and is crafted from sandblasted titanium, showcasing both technical innovation and aesthetic refinement.
Back to the Sixties
Reflecting on the work of Gérald Genta, the visionary behind the Octo, Nautilus, and Royal Oak designs, it’s worth noting that later in his career, he moved away from multi-faceted shapes in favour of rectangular forms. His final brand, Gerald Charles, which was revived three years ago with the involvement of Octavio Garcia (the creator of the Royal Oak Offshore), unveiled the Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 in Geneva in 2024. This model, created in collaboration with the iconic motorcycle manufacturer Ducati, features the automatic calibre GCA 3002JH with a "jumping hour" function. It is housed in an almost square case with eight corners, crafted from carbon with a ceramic bezel. Limited to 250 pieces, the watch pays homage to Ducati’s legendary 916 superbike, blending precision watchmaking with the spirit of Italian engineering.
Additionally, it’s worth mentioning a few brands for which square cases are more than just a passing trend—they are part of their identity. Chief among these is the famous TAG Heuer Monaco chronograph, originally produced between 1969 and the late 1970s before making a triumphant return. In the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green edition, inspired by the historic prototype, the Calibre 11 movement is positioned so that the crown is on the left side—a practical feature for drivers.
Rado, a brand that experienced its design heyday in the 1960s and 1970s, introduces a new incarnation of its iconic square watches, now equipped with refined movements. The True Square Open Heart Limited Edition features a skeletonised R734 calibre adorned with a Côtes de Genève pattern. Its striking appearance is defined by a chessboard-like interplay of black and white ceramic, showcasing Rado's mastery of innovative materials and timeless design.
Bell & Ross, a brand that rose to fame in the early 2000s with its niche square-shaped BR 01 watches inspired by aviation instruments, has now shifted its focus to a more everyday and versatile collection: the BR 05 Black Ceramic. The black case evokes the design of vintage television sets, blending retro charm with modern sophistication.
Finally, the newly established brand March LA.B debuted its very first model in a square case. The last letters in the name don’t refer to a “laboratory” but instead stand for Los Angeles and Biarritz—the cities where the brand’s founders reside. This makes the inclusion of a dual-time zone indicator in the debut March LA.B AM2 GMT Automatic feel perfectly fitting.
In their quest for inspiration for modern square watches, designers are increasingly turning to mid-20th-century architecture. The new Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02, for instance, draws inspiration from an original 1961 model influenced by Brutalism—a style characterised by simple geometric forms and massive concrete structures. During that era, many brands, including Rolex, embraced the Brutalist aesthetic in watchmaking. We can likely expect a new wave of reimagined vintage designs from this period to emerge.
The boutique brand Lebond has unveiled the Siza model, dedicated to the renowned Portuguese architect and Pritzker Prize laureate Álvaro Siza Vieira. The rhombus-shaped case takes its inspiration from his iconic Leça swimming pool, designed in 1966.
Not all modern watchmakers look to the past for inspiration. The designers of the Behrens Orion One reimagined the square case as a futuristic spaceship, featuring a three-dimensional gear system housed under a baguette-shaped glass dome. Hours and minutes are displayed on two roller indicators at the base of the case—an excellent solution for those keeping up with the times but still struggling to read traditional hands on a dial.
