Shifting the hands
It’s hard to imagine a more conservative industry than that of prestigious mechanical watches. Here, traditions and technologies dating back to the era of stagecoaches are revered, and many renowned manufacturers boast centuries of history. Yet, haute horlogerie continues to produce fascinating new projects with enviable regularity.
At first glance, this seems paradoxical, as mechanical watches have long ceased to be utilitarian objects. Watch mechanics, especially complex ones, are a luxury — an indulgence appreciated and afforded by only a select few. It might seem that these connoisseurs would be satisfied with a handful of time-tested brands, consistently presenting sophisticated premieres. Yet, new watch brands appear almost as frequently as new electronic gadget companies.
The explanation is simple: since mechanical watches are indeed a luxury, novelty is crucial in this field. Familiar names can grow tiresome, while new ventures spark curiosity, especially when distinguished by unique design, bold ideas, and clear messaging.
The ease of launching new brands is fueled by the strength the Swiss watch industry has gained over the past thirty years. Top designers, engineers, craftsmen, and marketers join forces to bring bold ideas to life. Whether the idea finds its audience is another question.
Focus on Sports
A prime example is Norqain, a brand founded in 2018 by two “non-nepo babies”: Ben Küffer, son of Roventa Henex’s co-owner, and Ted Schneider, son of the former owner of Breitling. Their third partner was renowned Swiss hockey player and 2017 Stanley Cup winner Mark Streit, with legendary Jean-Claude Biver serving as an initial consultant for the project.
From the outset, the brand targeted a young, active audience drawn to affordable mechanics, bold designs, and excellent sports features.
The breakthrough came in 2020 when Norqain became the third brand, alongside Tudor and Chanel, to use Kenissi calibers certified by COSC, instantly elevating the newcomers to the top tier of Swiss watchmaking. However, the brand hasn’t abandoned reliable ETA and Sellita bases, which they refine to meet their standards, allowing them to maintain attractive pricing. For instance, this year’s Norqain Independence Skeleton 40mm features the automatic skeleton NB08S movement with a 41-hour power reserve and COSC certification. The stainless steel case, available in uncoated or black PVD, has been reduced to a practical 40mm compared to the previous version.
The independent Geneva-based brand Bianchet also caters to sports-oriented clientele but in a more exclusive segment. It aims to compete with Richard Mille — and quite successfully. This spring, the brand unveiled the Bianchet UltraFino Tourbillon with a carbon case and ultra-thin Calibre UT01, capable of withstanding forces up to 5000 g. Over the summer, Bianchet allowed Russian-Kazakh tennis player Alexander Bublik, known for his aggressive playing style, to test the ultra-durable tourbillon during the Roland Garros tournament. Although Bublik lost to Jannik Sinner in the quarterfinals, the watch on his wrist endured the shocks caused by powerful racket swings without issue.
Unconventional tourbillons have also become the specialty of the young brand Vanguart, born from the collaborative creativity of top-tier specialists. Alex Leonberger and Jérémy Flérechot previously worked at APRP under the guidance of Giulio Papi, where they developed innovative models for Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, and Chanel. They were joined by designer Thierry Fischer, famous for his bold concept of a tourbillon resembling a “black hole” — a vortex with disc indications at the center of the dial. The brand debuted with this project three years ago, and last year introduced the more traditional and commercially successful Vanguart Orb. This model features a three-dimensional tourbillon and classic hand indications, complemented by an unusual convex “orbital rotor” for automatic winding that rotates around the dial’s edge. The Orb is available in rose gold or titanium, with the latter spotted on Johnny Depp’s wrist at the London premiere of his summer film “Modi.”
World Tour
Young watchmaker Théo Offré and successful manager Guillaume Lede joined forces two years ago to create SpaceOne, a brand inspired by science fiction — as its name suggests. This year, they unveiled their third model, the SpaceOne WorldTimer, featuring the most unusual world-time indication. The case resembles a space shuttle. The lower disc displays hours, the left shows minutes and seconds, and the right indicates time zones. It’s hard to believe this rarity costs less than three thousand euros.
SpaceOne exemplifies a new trend gaining incredible popularity among collectors — the fascination with so-called “microbrands.” These are small teams without their own production facilities but with strong connections, enabling them to quickly switch between contractors and adapt collections to customer preferences.
One such brand is Ming, celebrated with numerous awards, including the Geneva Grand Prix. Ming grew from a small atelier opened in Kuala Lumpur by designer Ming Thein. Today, the brand even boasts its own production facility in Switzerland, though it continues to release only limited editions. The new Ming 3702 Monolith features a classic minimalist design with pagoda-shaped strap mounts and a dial that changes color depending on the lighting. The stainless steel case with black PVD measures 38mm and houses the Sellita SW300-1 movement. Production is limited to just 100 pieces per year.
The Beaubleu brand, founded by Nicolas Ducouder-Fam, offers a distinctly French take on dial design. The Seconde Française model showcases the brand’s signature concept, instantly setting these watches apart: the central hour and minute hands are designed as two rings, while a third ring, the seconds indicator, rotates around the dial’s edge. Notably, these watches feature not only French design but also a French movement. The 39mm steel case houses the France Ébauches caliber. Production is limited to 888 pieces.
Microbrands can impress not only with boldness and friendly pricing but also with super exclusivity. Take Guebli, launched just last year. Instead of the usual “Swiss made” marking, their dials proudly display “Hand made.” The list of contributors to the 2025 Guebli CH1 Retrograde premiere includes the elite of Swiss watchmaking. The design was crafted by Eric Giroud, the case by Kari Voutilainen, and the movement by Sylvain Pinaud. Even the strap is handmade at Jean Rousseau’s atelier. Only 80 of these collectible rarities have been produced.
Back in the Game
There’s an answer for skeptics who doubt the ability of niche brands to hold public attention for long. What happens to a brand when its popularity fades? If the project is interesting enough, it will likely be revived.
This is what happened with Breva, which debuted twelve years ago with the complex but somewhat eccentric Genie 1 model featuring a built-in mechanical barometer. This year, the brand was revived, now without questionable meteorological modules. The new Breva Segreto di Lario features gray or salmon dials alongside central hour and minute hands, with two retrograde power reserve indicators — one tracking the first six days and the other the last 24 hours. The exclusive mechanism with a seven-day power reserve and dual barrels was developed, as before, by Jean-François Mojon.
The Dennison brand, revived six months ago, draws inspiration from the best ideas in British watch design popular in the mid-20th century — stylish, streamlined cases shaped like TV screens or cushions, which are once again in vogue. This was confirmed by John Reardon, the renowned Patek Philippe collector and former head of Christie’s watch division, who chose Dennison for an exquisite collaboration, Blue Sunray.
Finally, L. Leroy has unexpectedly returned from oblivion. In recent years, the brand was more dormant than active. It belongs to the Festina Group and was originally conceived as the “French Breguet” — elite mechanics with complications based on the historical legacy of 18th-century watchmaker Charles Leroy. However, L. Leroy struggled to compete in the high-end segment and quietly faded away. Surprisingly, the manufacture is still operational and even celebrating its 240th anniversary this year, planning a spectacular premiere in its honor.
So collectors shouldn’t relax just yet.
