Attention zone
From Vladivostok to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, you should plan for at least a week. While the distance between the scallops of Primorye and the crabs of Sakhalin may seem short, the route is demanding, crossing a frontier rich with complexities. The northern group of islands — from Cape Lomonosov through Rikord Island to Cape Sysoyev — is relatively accessible and does not require special permits. Anchoring at Rikord allows excursions to Pakhtusov, Zheltukhin, Verkhovsky, and other nearby islands. However, venturing further south requires permits from the border service. Be mindful of the numerous protected zones along the coast and on the islands. For instance, Bolshoy Pelis Island lies within a conservation area and must be bypassed far offshore. Fortunately, there are always alternatives. For example, you could head to Cape Gamov and spend a few days exploring the area before returning to Vityaz Bay.
If navigating depth charts isn’t your preference, step aboard the "Professor Khromov." Chartered by Vasta Expeditions under the auspices of the Russian Geographical Society, this ice-class vessel offers greater stability, capacity, and onboard amenities than yachts, all while maintaining comparable comfort. Even those unaccustomed to the Spartan spirit of expeditions will feel at ease. Accommodating up to 46 guests, the ship features five cabin categories ranging from "standard" to "luxury," two restaurants, a bar, a library, a lecture and cinema hall, a sauna, and a medical office.
Attention to detail is essential when navigating the Sea of Japan, where surprises like surge waves are common. Navigational charts should be treated with the utmost care, as intuition alone won’t suffice. A timeless resource is the atlas published by the Pacific Fleet's Hydrographic Service, invaluable for understanding the complex seabed topography. Many of the islands were once part of the mainland; today, submerged isthmuses hint at ancient riverbeds hidden below. Interestingly, the first depth measurements in this region were conducted by hydrographic officers of the Russian Imperial Navy, many of whom were members of the Imperial Russian Geographical Society.
Exploring
The weather in the Far East is famously unpredictable, but if you’re fortunate enough to set sail after a cyclone, the monsoon climate will reveal its best side.
Sunburn fades, but the immersive lectures by Lazovsky Reserve staff — whose presence is mandatory for entry into the reserve — leave a lasting impression. These experiences are unforgettable; you’ll learn so much about the Amur tiger. Imagine walking a trail in the "Call of the Tiger" National Park, sharing it with a predator and examining fresh claw marks on Dahurian birches. Since 2013, the "Amur Tiger" Center, initiated by the Russian Geographical Society, has been working to restore the tiger population. This endangered species is closely monitored with camera traps and GPS collars. Today, one in six recorded Siberian tigers resides in this part of Primorye.
Lazovsky, with its rugged coastline, cedar forests, and mountain rivers, is a microcosm of Primorye. Reaching it is an adventure in itself, but the journey is worth it. The air is rich with the scent of pine and sea, and the silence is broken only by birdsong and rustling leaves. Here, civilization fades away, allowing you to immerse yourself in untouched nature. The trails are scenic, offering glimpses of rare plants and animals. While spotting a Siberian tiger is unlikely, with some luck, you might find its tracks. Even the thought of this majestic predator nearby adds an element of thrill.
Capturing
It’s hard to tear yourself away from the deck and retreat to your cabin. The cinematic views are endless: moments ago, we passed under the cables of the bridge in Golden Horn Bay, catching glimpses of Vladivostok’s iconic Tokarevsky Lighthouse guiding ships through the narrow Eastern Bosphorus. Now, just hours later, we’re comparing it to the equally photogenic Bruce Lighthouse in Slavyanka Bay. Nearby lies the world’s only marine platform for launching satellites into orbit.
The density of sights per nautical mile only increases. Through binoculars, Askold Island comes into view, bristling with pre-war cannons and crowned with the dome of a small chapel. Landing on the island reveals that the old coastal defense gun’s rotating mechanism is still operational. The newly built log chapel, dedicated to Archangel Michael, emits a pleasant resinous aroma. Once a military base, Askold is scattered with remnants of its past: crumbling barracks, concrete fortifications, and traces of an old gold mining settlement. Abandoned mines and ruins of houses are poignant reminders of the island's 19th-century gold rush.
Observing and Listening
Unkovsky Island is a small, nearly uninhabited patch of land in Peter the Great Bay. Modest on maps, it impresses up close with its wild beauty and timeless tranquility. The silence is captivating — no cars, no crowds, no advertisements. Just the sound of waves, seagulls, and the whisper of grass in the wind.
The island’s shores are carved with dramatic cliffs, where waves crash relentlessly. Seals bask on the rocks, observing the rare visitors with calm curiosity. Remnants of old lighthouses dot the island, while its flora, though modest, is uniquely beautiful. Low shrubs, grasses, and flowers form a natural carpet over the rocky ground, and the air is filled with the scent of sea and herbs.
Steller sea lion rookeries can be spotted from afar. As zodiac boats approach the wave-battered rocks, the pale shapes of the sea lions come to life, accompanied by their loud, whiskered roars. During mating season, they’re best left undisturbed, but by early summer, visitors are greeted with their playful antics and a fishy aroma. In the water, their agility is astounding, a reminder of their status as marine predators. Their presence sends minke whales swimming cautiously away, while curious spotted seals keep their distance.
Amazed
The mystical Petrov Island, a protected natural botanical garden, boasts over 400 plant species, including the world’s only island yew grove. Sanctuaries have existed here since the Neolithic era and the medieval Bohai period. The island’s mysteries remain unsolved: millennia-old trees bear strange markings (were they planted or naturally grown?), three springs offer "living" and "dead" water, and the exact age of the toxic yews remains unknown. Archaeological expeditions, permitted only to clear but not excavate, leave more questions than answers.
After another night crossing, the austere beauty of Baluzek Lighthouse greets visitors. This landmark of Vladimir Bay guards a breathtaking cliffside trail. At its end lies a secluded beach, accessible only to cruise passengers.
Finally, the pinnacle of the journey — Moneron Island emerges on the horizon! This emerald gem defies description. You simply must visit to experience its beauty firsthand. In summer, with warm waters, it’s the perfect spot for diving and snorkeling in Russia’s clearest marine bay.
Finishing
Sakhalin, Port Korsakov. Even if you have just one day in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, don’t miss two must-see attractions. First, within the city limits, there’s a unique mountain resort. Climb to the top, take in the panoramic views, and make it a day to remember. With the addition of a chalet complex at its base, the area is vibrant, upscale, and a year-round destination. Second, visit the Sakhalin Regional Museum, housed in a 1930s Japanese-style "teikan-zukuri" ("imperial crown") building resembling a medieval castle. Its surrounding garden is equally impressive. The museum’s treasures, most of which are the result of expeditions by the Russian Geographical Society, are sure to intrigue you. Set aside at least three hours and promise yourself you’ll return.
