A new turn

Cars with internal combustion engines will inevitably join the ranks of mechanical watches—prestigious, yet cumbersome and costly relics of the past. Already, collaborations between watch and automotive brands are becoming less about commerce and more about philosophy, as straightforward approaches like slapping a car logo on a watch dial fail to resonate with modern audiences.

Not long ago, luxury watch and car brands eagerly pursued partnerships, churning out dozens of collaborative products each year. The rationale was clear: both industries cater to a similar audience, their releases are typically limited, and exclusivity appeals to collectors. Moreover, when car designers and engineers are genuinely involved in watchmaking, the results can be extraordinary.

But all good things must come to an end. In recent years, the once-powerful wave of automotive tributes has slowed to a trickle. Watch brands are now shifting their focus to collaborations with designers, artists, and musicians, leaving car enthusiasts with fewer opportunities to revel in the fusion of mechanical watchmaking and automotive artistry. Perhaps this reflects an effort to capture the interests of Gen Z, or perhaps both the automotive and watch industries are grappling with crises that leave little room for extravagant joint ventures.

Richard Mille’s record-breaking RM UP-01 Ferrari, released in 2022, marked a high point in automotive-inspired watches. Since then, the brand has moved on to other projects, and its partnership with Ferrari has faded into the background. Meanwhile, a bombshell announcement last year revealed that Rolex would not renew its long-standing sponsorship of Formula 1—a move that stunned fans who could hardly imagine F1 broadcasts without the iconic golden crown on green billboards. However, Formula 1 is a global brand, and TAG Heuer quickly stepped in to fill the void. TAG Heuer’s CEO, Frédéric Arnault, emphasized that this partnership is a cornerstone of the brand’s revival strategy, particularly given F1’s popularity among younger generations.

The wait wasn’t long. In early 2025, TAG Heuer unveiled a robust lineup of new racing-inspired models in Los Angeles. The centerpiece of this launch was the relaunch of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 collection, which now includes four new chronographs in titanium cases with black DLC coating. A standout piece is the special edition TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing, featuring a carbon bezel and the signature colors of the racing team.

For classic car fans, TAG Heuer introduced the limited-edition Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye, dedicated to the legendary Porsche 911, which debuted at the Monte Carlo Rally in 1965. The dial design echoes the dashboard clocks of the historic sports car, while the watch is powered by the in-house TH20-08 Chronosprint chronograph caliber with an 80-hour power reserve. Two versions are available: 911 pieces in stainless steel and 11 in rose gold.

Drive shaft and tourbillon

Judging by recent automotive-themed watch releases, Frédéric Arnault is not alone in his vision. Racing circuits and sports cars have become the primary focus for watchmakers, who now draw inspiration not from leather and wood interiors but from the engines of race cars. Modern designers envision watches as powerful machines on the wrist, with skeletonized movements resembling exposed engines and tourbillons adding a dynamic edge.

A prime example is the latest project from independent Geneva-based brand Bianchet: the Maserati MSG Racing Flying Tourbillon Grande Date. This watch honors Maserati's Formula E team and features an open-worked movement with a tourbillon and a 90-hour power reserve. Made from titanium, it boasts an astonishing shock resistance of 5,000 G. The case, crafted from titanium and carbon, weighs just 55 grams without the strap. Production is limited to 21 pieces.

Meanwhile, H. Moser & Cie has taken a more traditional approach, partnering with Alpine Motorsports (formerly Renault) last year. To celebrate this collaboration, the brand introduced the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Alpine Blue, dressed in the signature sky-blue color of Alpine’s race cars. Beyond the vibrant hue, the watch showcases pure mechanical refinement, featuring the HMC 811 caliber with a gold skeletonized rotor and a cylindrical tourbillon. The cushion-shaped steel case is limited to 100 pieces.

Bell & Ross, a former sponsor of Renault, has also embraced the world of high-speed racing with its new BR-X5 Racing collection. This line builds on the design language of the BR-05 everyday wear collection but with a more powerful and aggressive aesthetic. The titanium monobloc case, reinforced with carbon plates, protects the mechanism from impacts. Bright indicators on the tinted glass dial ensure easy readability, while the automatic BR-CAL.323 chronograph movement, based on Kenissi, powers the watch. Production is capped at 500 pieces.

Simply beautiful

Not all Swiss watchmakers have been captivated by the racing world. Jacob & Co., for instance, continues to create jaw-dropping concepts inspired by Bugatti’s hypercars. One of the most striking examples is the Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon, the result of a five-year collaboration between the two luxury titans. The watch features a 30-second tourbillon, retrograde hour and minute counters, and a power reserve indicator. But the true showstopper is the automaton in the center of the case, which replicates the workings of Bugatti’s V16 engine with miniature sapphire and titanium cylinders. Production is limited to 250 pieces, matching the number of Bugatti V16 Tourbillon cars.

Another auto-watch niche that arouses constant interest among a certain circle of collectors is vintage editions. They are dedicated to legendary cars of the past, to the design of racing chronographs of the 60s and 70s, or to legendary racing drivers.

Independent brand Depancel, known for its rally watches from the mid-20th century, has revived this heritage with the New Allure Chronograph. The design pays homage to 1970s racing watches, while the VK63 mecha-quartz movement, produced by Seiko, ensures reliability. This hybrid movement, once considered a pinnacle of watchmaking innovation, remains a solid performer today.

Cuervo y Sobrinos has released the second series of its Historiador Nino Farina collection, dedicated to Emilio Giuseppe "Nino" Farina, the 1950s Formula 1 champion. Following the success of the first edition in 2023, the brand introduced a new iteration in a stainless steel case, styled in Alfa Romeo colors and powered by the CYS 8129 caliber based on ETA 2894. Production is limited to 158 pieces.

Automotive-watch concepts aren’t limited to wristwatches. Design brand Kross Studio, known for its collaborations with Hollywood studios, has launched a collection dedicated to the 1989 Batman film. Among the highlights is the Kross Studio 1989 Batmobile Desk Clock, a nostalgic nod to the era when Bruce Wayne drove a real car rather than a gravity-defying phantom. The rolling digital display on the hood ensures you never lose track of time.