Luxury watch brands are finding it increasingly challenging to capture attention with new achievements. Discerning clients often respond with a shrug, thinking, "We've seen it all before." We've witnessed the most complex and precise mechanisms, the largest tourbillons, and the fastest and slowest balances. One can't help but recall the hefty masterpiece unveiled by Vacheron Constantin in Geneva this spring. Officially, it boasts 63 complications and is, of course, a one-of-a-kind piece made to order. Such models seem more suited for royal cabinets of curiosities than for the rapidly evolving modern market.
The same holds true for new technologies; many ambitious projects that promised to revolutionize traditional watchmaking have been abandoned due to lack of profitability.
It appears that the only arena still inviting artisans to compete openly is that of ultra-thin watches. Cutting mere fractions of a millimeter from a case to claim the title of "thinnest in the world" is a guaranteed way to draw attention to a brand. While only a small fraction of clients might opt for mechanics as thin as a credit card, this pursuit can boost sales of more traditional models.
Earlier this spring, two long-time rivals showcased their latest achievements: Piaget introduced the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, the thinnest in the world at just 2 mm thick, while Bulgari set a new record for the thinnest manual-winding watch. The case height of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC measured a mere 1.7 mm, leading many to question whether this benchmark could ever be surpassed.
It turns out that it is indeed possible. At the Geneva Watch Days in late August, Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaikin unveiled the ThinKing concept, featuring a case thickness of just 1.65 mm. The dial, with its two independent counters, visually echoes the famous "Joker" watch, but inside lies a mechanism with innovative engineering solutions, including an ultra-thin mainspring and a double balance. Remarkably, the watch lacks a crown; winding and time-setting are accomplished using an additional external case called the PalanKing, which can be worn over the watch on the wrist. The commercial potential of this model remains uncertain, but it’s exciting to see an independent Russian watchmaker entering the race for ultra-thin ambitions alongside industry giants.
It will be interesting to see whether previous record holders like Piaget, Richard Mille, and Bulgari will accept this challenge and whether there truly is a reasonable limit to the thickness of wristwatches.
Accelerated Mechanics
This year, it has become clear that the calendar for watch premieres has changed significantly and is likely here to stay. Five years ago, leading brands would unveil their major innovations at the beginning of the year, aiming for autumn sales. Now, everything happens at a much faster pace.
Similar to the fashion industry, which operates on the principle of fast fashion—rapidly changing collections even within a single season—watchmakers are also adapting to consumer demands by releasing new models in batches several times a year. This shift is primarily due to the increasing movement of sales online and even into social media. Additionally, traditional manufacturers are facing growing competition from so-called microbrands—independent ateliers producing watches in small batches, allowing them to respond quickly to customer requests.
First and foremost, this pertains to the color palette, which changes so frequently that it can be quite dizzying. For instance, while green was undoubtedly the trendiest color at the beginning of the year, it has now given way to purple as autumn arrives. Variations of this hue completely transform familiar models. For example, the brand HYT has introduced its first capsule collection, the T1 Series, featuring dials in green, chocolate, and purple for its most commercially viable and user-friendly model, the T1 in a titanium case, which was presented this spring. This collection is not limited but will be available strictly until April 2025.
A true explosion of color was showcased by the refined brand H. Moser & Cie, which unexpectedly teamed up with the rebellious Studio Underd0g to create the incredible Passion Fruit Watch concept. This collection consists of a pair of models with dials painted in the vibrant hue of a cut passion fruit. The Studio Underd0g watches are equipped with a Sellita movement, while the H. Moser & Cie model features the Pioneer case with the in-house HMC 800 caliber, complete with a perpetual calendar. Each release is limited to just 100 pieces.
Old Acquaintances
In recent years, it seems that no year goes by without the launch of new watch brands. This trend stems from market saturation; many enthusiasts have already snapped up all the coveted Rolexes and Pateks, leaving them yearning for something fresh and exciting. This is where marketers step in, tasked with crafting bold and attractive new concepts.
Interestingly, the two most notable debuts this year were the returns of previously recognized but forgotten brands.
The first brand making waves is the legendary Amida, which introduced a mechanical watch with a vertical side display back in 1976. The design, inspired by the aesthetics of 70s sports cars and LED displays, has captivated modern watchmakers for years. Now, Clément Meunier, who also owns the Depancel watch brand, along with Mathieu Alger, has decided to revive the iconic Digitrend model, incorporating some contemporary updates. Notably, the jumping hour module has been completely reimagined, and it now houses the latest Soprod Newton P092 automatic caliber. The first series of the Amida Digitrend Take Off is available exclusively for pre-order.
In September, the Geneva Watch Days witnessed yet another revival of the brand Favre Leuba, founded in 1737 and recognized as the second oldest watchmaker after Blancpain. Under the leadership of Patrick Hoffmann, the former CEO of Ulysse Nardin, Favre Leuba has chosen to focus on everyday chronographs and dive watches. The models in the Favre Leuba Deep Blue Revival collection are inspired by vintage dive watches released by the brand in 1964. These timepieces are quite practical, featuring a versatile 39mm case and the prestigious La Joux-Perret G100 caliber.
The Third Wave
One major piece of news from the spring Watches & Wonders exhibition in Geneva came as a shock to many collectors, albeit an expected one: Rolex has discontinued the Yacht-Master II collection. This bold move to retire an entire line is particularly notable given the exceptional chronograph caliber 4161 used in these watches. According to the brand’s management, the model did not generate sufficient demand due to its specific design and niche characteristics. Could this signal the end of the era for yacht chronographs with regatta counters?
Apparently not. In fact, as the year drew to a close, new models for yachtsmen began to emerge rapidly—likely influenced by the upcoming 37th America's Cup regatta in Barcelona. Omega, the official timekeeper of the event, unveiled the professional Seamaster Regatta America's Cup Watch. Powered by a 5701 quartz movement, this watch features three timers, a moon phase indicator, and a logbook, in addition to a chronograph with a regatta counter.
For fans of classic sailing, there are also models featuring a recognizable retro design. TAG Heuer has collaborated with the watch collector platform Hodinkee to introduce a new version of its Seafarer chronograph, originally launched in 1968 for Abercrombie & Fitch stores. In celebration of this milestone, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer x Hodinkee is limited to just 968 pieces, all housed in a 42mm steel case and powered by the Manufacture Chronograph TH20-13.
Another example of an unusual collaboration is the Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph, created with the concept of "imaginary retro." This design does not replicate a historical prototype, though the sector dial clearly reflects the style of the 1930s. It features a countdown timer with a separate retrograde hand, designed for a 10-minute countdown, which stops even while the chronograph continues to run.
And this is far from the only new timepiece for yachtsmen. Who knows, we might soon see a third generation of the Yacht-Master!
