From the frontier town of Tromsø, the journey of 500–600 nautical miles takes about four days. A similar duration applies if you're starting from Murmansk. Extended cruises from the capital of the Lofoten Islands, Svolvær (800–900 miles), or even from Oslo, are also quite popular.
No matter where you set off from, you'll encounter Bear Island roughly halfway along the route. Here, at the convergence of three seas—the Greenland Sea, the Norwegian Sea, and the Barents Sea—cod fishing is excellent, and it's a great spot for birdwatching and other wildlife observation. Puffins and gulls will eagerly approach your lens and heart, unless there's fog. In these latitudes, with active fishing and yachting navigation, having radar is essential. The marina in Tromsø has many ice-class yachts, but even 80-foot vessels don't risk venturing further during the summer due to the presence of ice fields.
However, the 79th parallel will not disappoint in terms of experiences. You could easily spend two weeks navigating within the archipelago, and even that might feel too short.
The predominant scenery outside your vessel consists of glaciers, which you cannot approach by any type of boat, including zodiacs, as large chunks of ice often crash down with a thunderous roar. Walking on the glacier’s surface is sometimes permitted, but only with special boots fitted with crampons, which must be rented in advance.
Short passages are interspersed with excursions on land. The trekking here is exceptional; the rugged coastline allows you to step ashore and traverse the springy tundra, climbing up mountains where vegetation ends and ammonites begin! Your yacht will be waiting on the other side, or you can paddle around the cape in a kayak. It's important to note that going ashore without a firearm is prohibited. This is especially relevant in summer, as it's the hungriest time for polar bears, making them more aggressive.
Most of Spitsbergen is occupied by nature reserves and national parks, which impose certain restrictions. Approaching bird colonies or disturbing any other inhabitants of the natural zone without a valid reason is strictly forbidden, even for the best photographic intentions. The fluffy reindeer, as if they’ve escaped from a children’s storybook, are completely wild and will quickly increase the distance between you from ten to fifty meters.
The array of experiences that take a tourist's breath away includes polar bears, belugas, narwhals, whales, and dolphins. You might miss seeing some of the larger animals, like walruses, on their haulout, but nature's cycles ensure that one species replaces another, like a scene change on stage.
The spectacle outside the boat is captivating and can be watched endlessly. Dolphins chase the yacht, and through binoculars, you can spot a polar bear on the yellow-green carpet of tundra, while a curious pod of belugas, with their loud snorts, races alongside the vessel and always wins.
One must-visit destination is the mining town of Barentsburg, located on the shores of Grønfjorden. If you're coming from Murmansk or Arkhangelsk, you'll need to register your crew list upon arrival in Barentsburg. Norwegian visas are not required; you can exit Russia with a Russian passport, and registration in Barcelona is also straightforward. Yachts can register online by declaring their intended points of entry.
In addition to Barentsburg itself, you can't miss the nearby mining settlements of varying degrees of abandonment—Pyramiden with the Nordenskiöld Glacier and Grumant, as well as a stop along the western coast to view other glaciers.
Among the approximately four hundred residents of Barentsburg, most are workers from the "Arcticugol" mine, which has been in operation for over a century. The tradition of removing shoes upon entering any building, from shops to visitor centres, is alive in all mining settlements, and the world’s northernmost village is no exception. Here, everyone greets one another, making you instantly feel like a part of the important "here and now."
The museum features intriguing Pomor chess sets. During long winter evenings, fearless locals found unique ways to pass the time. A tour deep into the mine leaves a strong impression. You must make the most of the short changeover period to explore the upper gallery. Upon returning to the surface, as you remove your helmet with the light and peel off your mining boots and overalls, you’re greeted by the bright smiles of the guys working beneath the permafrost at a depth of about a kilometre.
Local specialities include craft beer at the "Red Bear," quality merchandise, and the chance to send a letter or postcard to those left on warmer shores. The cosy post office is decorated in a vintage style.
A completely different atmosphere—one reminiscent of a stalker’s adventure—awaits us in Kolsbay, offering a fantastic view of Isfjorden. In the former mining settlement of Grumant, there’s a house dedicated to Vladimir Rusanov (one of the prototypes for the main character in "Two Captains"), along with several abandoned buildings and one that is conditionally inhabited, serving as a stop for members of scientific expeditions. As is the case throughout Spitsbergen, any movement outside the boundaries of the settlement (and in the case of the abandoned Grumant—anywhere) is only permitted with a guide armed with a rifle or your own weapon.
Finally, we arrive at a monument to Soviet life—the settlement of Pyramiden! After the mine closed in 1998, residents abandoned the village, overshadowed by a strangely shaped mountain. It once had everything for self-sufficient living, from a kitchen factory to a cultural centre featuring a bust of Lenin gazing out at the Nordenskiöld Glacier. Thanks to "Arctic Ugol," the renovated cultural centre is once again operational, serving coffee, offering books, and hosting evenings of amateur performances.
This year, the historic swimming pool with its mosaics has been restored. It seems that Pyramiden is on the brink of a revival. For foreigners and millennial Russians, this "back in the USSR" experience can be equally intriguing. Volunteers have revitalised some of the vacant buildings, including a school and a kindergarten that are open for visits. You can look at a first-grade primer, see children’s sandals, or pop into the miners’ bar featuring "forbidden" items. A globe, worn smooth by little fingers tracing the outline of Spitsbergen, is truly touching.
The initial plan to drive away the seagulls from the former miners' dormitory was abandoned—this unique blend of nature and human creation has led to a vibrant ecosystem, with the birds fiercely defending their urban marketplace. Although a few dozen more rooms would be beneficial, as sometimes the hotel, known by its Soviet name "Tulip," can be fully booked! The dock at Pyramiden, where several ships stop each day during the season, can also get quite crowded. On Pyramid Day in August, when the sealed mine opens its doors to visitors once a year, it’s always a sold-out event.
Here, you meet travellers from all continents. A night (or rather, an endless polar day) with a view of the glacier will be unforgettable. Guests all agree on one thing—such an experience is only possible here, on the Russian side of Spitsbergen.
The Russian Geographical Society, in collaboration with "Arctic Ugol," organises a special expedition that allows participants to engage in scientific research on Spitsbergen. You can climb Pyramiden to the summit of Tarantul, visit the Fridtjof Glacier, and explore the Lomonosov Plateau on a snowmobile. This unique experience will forever change your perspective on life, creating a clear divide between "before" and "after."
